It was a 3 day holiday and I really wanted to go somewhere. So I decided to hike few Rocky Mountains around Kurunegala. After many years I got a chance to get Anupama involved and Chamara also joined in. we left early to reach Mallawapitiya at around 7.30am where we had breakfast. From Mallawapitiya we took the Indulgodakanda road and on our way we saw a jackal caught in a trap near a road side forest patch. With few villagers we only managed to free him partially because a piece of wire was still left on his body. I pray for this little chap who had been caught to a “madda”. Our next stop was Indulgodakanda from there we took the road towards Handurukanda. The road was a 4wd one and at some points it was cemented. We stopped at a small village with line houses though the road continued uphill. The road goes further uphill but through a privet property so we had to stop at this point.

The map – click to enlarge

Handuruk kanda as seen from keppetigala

a fox caught in a trap

Yakdessagala

Athugala seen on the way to indulgodakanda

We had to climb parallel to a dried out stream which lied along the left border of the privet estate until we reached the Buddhist shrine at the end of the estate where the road ends. If you get permission from the estate you could drive up to this point in a 4wd. From this point it was a continuous ascend and one needs to tackle 500m’s before reaching the summit. The summit is covered with trees and bushes so there is no clear view. There were ruins of an ancient Pagoda and people call it Bimba viharaya. The only side one could view is Mawathagama side from this point.  There is another steep climb to the summit from Udugammana and Yatiwela villages which Anupama has done on his previous attempt. From the summit we went towards the 3 way junction where the two paths meet and at this point we headed towards the rocky area to get a clear view of Kurunegala side. From this point one could easily see Kurunegala town, Athugala, Kurunegala lake, Yakdessagala, Bathalegoda lake, Mallawapitiya, Mawathagama, Ambokka peak, Etipola, Wiltshire, Keppetigala, Bisogala and Rambodagalla area, Thunbage, Parape range & Alagalla.

on our way

on the way scenery

Kauwel kanda – Parape kanda

starting point of the proper trail

steep climb

morning rays

all together

walking along the summit

Bimba viharaya in ruins

close up

paddy

left hand peak is etipola and right hand peak is Wiltshire

a flag

alagalla peak seen

paddyfields of mawathagama

valley of paddyfields

more scenery

Alagalla

Rambodagalla biso gala range

Mawathagama town

bisogala range in the front

towards thunbage

Kurunegala town

kurunegala zoomed

Batalegoda lake

Ambokka peak

paddy been plucked

Mallawapitiya

the team

the rock where we spent some time

After a 45 minute stay we started descending down because the heat was unbearable. Within one hour we reached the village where we halted our vehicle. After a successful morning we were now ready to attempt another mountain in the evening.

getting down

natural peella

Thank you for reading

There had been some discussions with Ashan, me and Nishan to do a Mega journey starting from Bambarella and reach KMP at Kalupahana then climb Thunhisgala and descend to Pallegama by exploring Duwili eli. Although I had been to Duwili Eli once from Etanwala, Thunhisgala was a dream for me. Ashan and Amila went for a two day hike to Thunhisgala but I couldn’t join them as I couldn’t take leave from my work place. So I missed their journey. I was in a confusion whether I could be able to do this before the rainy season. Because Kalupahana area is not a place where you can travel every time of the year. And it’s not a place where everyone like to visit and it’s a place where you can’t take each and every one who  like to visit the place. But for my survival Dodam who has good experience in traveling in knuckles(He had climbed even Lakegala with Sri ) wanted to do it and Knuckles expert Nishan(who had climbed almost all the peaks of Knuckles ) happily joined us too. Since we had experienced travelers with three well experienced guides we gave a chance to two new comers to join with us. They were my brother Nipuna and Dodam’s Cousin Brother Dinesh. So considering lots of facts I planned my 12th visit to Knuckles range.

Our rough plan was to come to Rathnagiiya estate/Bambarella before 12.00 noon and reach Kmp before dark with the guide Thyagaraja. Stay the first night in Kmp and climb Thunhisgala Following day morning with Same guide and return to Kmp before 12.00 noon. Then split the journey in to three . Thaygaraj and Nishan moving to bamabarella and Me and my brother moving to Duwili Eli with One of the guides who came from Ranamure and stay Duwili Eli cave at night. Then getting down to Ranamure in the third day .While Dodam and his cousin decided on getting down to Meemure in third day with other guide while staying second night in kmp. So we informed Thyagarajato come to Ratnagiri estate at bambarella at 12.00 p.m. and other two guides ( Kalu Malli at meemure and Punch Banda at Ranamure ) to come to Kmp  on next day. But due to safety reasons they informed us that both will start from Ranamure in the morning and come to kmp by noon on the first day.

We all except Nishan gathered to Fort railway station at 5.45 a.m. on 21st

We Waited for the  podimenike Train. There was a delay in arrival of train. since 21st being the Full moon day there was a huge crowd and we had to keep standing all the way till Kandy.

We had breakfast there. Then we boarded to a Bambarella Bus. But it stopped at wattegama for nearly one hour. At Panwila Nishan joined us by getting in to our bus and we all got down from a junction called “Malgudi ” which is before Bambarella town.

Then we contacted our guide Thyagaraja but he  had gone somewhere thinking we might not come. Because we promised to come to the junction at 11.00-12.00 but it was around 1.30 p.m. then. So after leaving a message to his father to contact us no sooner he comes we headed towards Ratnagiriya estate. after walking for a kilometer we came to a small stream with a bridge. We had Rotty as lunch which was brought by Nishan. Then we walked up another 2 km or so and stayed at the “Dalu Maduwa” where the original tral ( foot path ) starts. Sometimes we used foot paths through tea estate.

Note: One can drive up to this place from main road if he comes with a 4WD or VAN

Going Towards Rathnagiri Estate

Entering to a tea estate

The Bridge

Small water stream

Having Lunch ( Left to right Me, Dodam, Dinesh, Nishan and Nipuna

Path to Hills

Using Short cuts – Dodams Brother Dinesh and My brother NIPUNA were the two new comers

Path through tea estate

Dodam @ Dalu Maduwa ..Last motorable place. From Where original hike starts

Nishan’s posing

We contacted our guide again at this place. Although his father assured his arrival it was frustrating to wait till him since time passed on. Finally he arrived at 3.30 p.m. which was quite late for us. One needs 3-4 hours to do this hike leisurely without getting exhausted. On the other hand other than our cloths, water and other items we had to carry more than 20 kg as food  and snacks as we have to survive for 3 days. Most of the items were canned food . On other hand ,though we were five we had to take care about three guides and three people in the KMP too. we divided the weight among six of us and started the journey .

It was a strenuous but scenic  hike till we pass Rathnagiriya mountain. Then we had to descend through the dense forest. We met the Kovil  and did some rituals and filled our bottles with water. Throughout the journey we hydrated ourselves using Jeewani and treated our shoes with Alum. In the middle we met a bunch of wild boars who ran in front of us furiously . It was getting dark at 6.00 and guide was in fear of wild animals so he accelerated and we had to do somewhat running behind him . We used torches but it couldn’t prevent us by falling and slipping. Adding to that it began to rain and thousands of blood suckers were activated. After an exhausting running in the dark and rain we reached KMP Wadiya at 6.45 p.m.

Initial climbing

We were greeted with lots of Embul Pera ( Vitamin C Bomb ) at the beginning

Initial pat was through Mana Forest ( Thyagaraj – our guide was coming Behind )

Scenic

Rathnagiriya Mountain

Dense Forest

Small Kovil Where we did rituals

Alum Treatment

Re starting

Place we met some wild boars

Strange place

Getting dark, just before the rain ..face tells everything

When we reach the KMP there were 5 people to great us. Two guides, Nihal mama the caretaker of KMP and two supporters . So there were total of 11 to stay in KMP . We gave all the food stuff to Nihal mama and supporters to cook for all 11 of us in next three days. Actually we didn’t have to bother on cooking.( Actually  Nihal Mama is a very helpful guy. He’ll arrange you meals , accommodation and sometimes guide you to nearby attractions. As travelers  we can assist him by bringing essential items like dried or canned food, candles, torches, kerosene)   Remember there is no electricity or mobile signals to Kmp. First they made Nescafe for us Then Rice, Salmon, Potatoes and coconut Sambal for dinner.  After having a wash at nearby water source we sat on the floor and had a nice chat with Nihal Mama. He told lots of stories about the cardamom processing History and etc. Then we had dinner and slept on paduru laid by them.

We made a vital change in plan before we sleep . Instead of getting down to Meemure ,Dodam and Dinesh wanted to join with us to explore doowili eli next day . So our next day plan was to climb Thunhisgala and Descend to Duwili Eli and stay the night in the Cave

Under the kerosene lamp light…Hearing Nihal mamage rasa Katha……………..

Refreshments before Dinner. When you go there pls. don not write anything on walls

Nishan was giving suggestions while having dinner at Kitchen

Thyagaraja -our guide – hero of Day 01

We woke up early in the morning and had Nescafe . ( Why We brought Nescafe 3 in 1 packets because it’s easy to prepare. Boil water and pour the mixture..simple..)

Then we had Noodles with Meat Balls . then we were ready to climb Thunhisgala at sharp 7.30 a.m. Thyagaraja took us through various foot paths and entered to the ridge of the mountain . from there it was a continuous ascend. Cool weather with invaded mist, colourful trees were blessing for us. Once we reached the place which we thought as summit , we witnessed another peak ahead. After climbing that we saw another peak. That may be the reason of naming this mountain as THUN HIS GALA ( Three headed Mountain ) After  So much of exhaustion we reached the last peak means summit after nearly 3 hours from the start. colorful surrounding with mist eliminated our tiredness  But it prevented us by getting a clear view which was a bad luck for photo lovers.

KMP Wadya where we stayed the last night – Photo : Dodam/Dinesh

Another angle

View of Thunhisgala from KMP

Some streams we crossed at the beginning – Photo : Dodam/Dinesh

More Barriers Photo : Dodam/Dinesh

Paths were not clear – Photo : Dodam/Dinesh

Wow Knuckles forest ……………………………………………………….with Cardamom threatening ……………….Undergrowth has no secondary line up. So once the remaining trees died the area will be a pathana ( Bare land ) that’s why FD has decided to stop cardamom processing in Kalupahana

moss

I Love these forests ….Oxygen Factories

Work of animals – Photo : Dodam/Dinesh

Initial climb was difficult without proper path – Photo : Dodam/Dinesh

Came to the ridge …now you have to climb through somewhat clear path

Tree Art

These were common

Came to an opening

View from there

More views

Beauty

A Pano

Now started the most difficult climb through bushes with dangerous drops either side Photo : Dodam/Dinesh

Aiyai Malliy -Photo : Dodam/Dinesh

See how they climb

More view on the way

Severe drops

The Ridge we came

See the top ..but there were more tops after that…Never ending hike at Thun His Gala

Exhausted

Came to the Target and getting some rest

Results Were Priceless – Photo : Dodam / Dinesh

Wow	Wonderful Colours -Photo : Dodam / Dinesh

Playing in Heaven -Photo : Dodam / Dinesh

Team At the Summit – Photo : Dodam / Dinesh

View was disturbed by Mist

Bowitiya

After spending nearly half an hour we returned back

On the way

Closer to KMP Now

Water stream

We reached KMP Sharp 12.30 p.m. which means 5 hours for the whole hike. We had lunch which was prepared by our other guides. They Had prepared Rice, Fried Halmessa and Dhal curry. As instructed by me they had packed the same meal for diner too. So after some time we thanked and said good bye to Thyagaraja and our Friend Nishan as they were going to Bambarella. Then we four and our two guides thanked Nihal mama and other two in KMP and Headed towards Doowili Eli at 1.30 P.M.

Our Team Well done our team and Thank you KMP ..We’ll Come back soon

Starting to get down to Duwili Eli. First we went along Ranamure track and then diverted..

Not only they had been here but also had destroyed a part of KMP. So be careful

Thunhisgala ..A Different view

Destroyed Wadi

Although there was not more than 5 kms to Duwili Ella from Kmp Wadiya there was no existing path. Our guides lead us purely with their instincts and later I knew that Kalupahana area was their second home . They knew every tree, every rock , stream , grassy land in this area . In fact the person who came from Kalupahana ( Kalu Malli ) is known to me as I had done Meemure -Ressa trail with him. Adding to that other person who came from Ranamura ( Punchi Banda ) was his  Cousin Brother ( Massina). Those two Massina’s had played everywhere in kalupahana when there were no restrictions ( Cardamom processing period ) . So we  had no issue in finding the path. We just had to obey their instructions.. Instead of getting down to Duwili Falls or climbing from somewhat middle in the stream they took us from a different route which was through a Pathana and reached the base of Duwili Eli from its right side. I Still can’t imagine  which was the path they took us. For our utter surprise and fear we saw elephant Dung closer to base of the Duwili Ella too. Also we had to go through a Maussa forest patch. We had to extra careful but our guide took a risk and cut down those plants by clearing the path for us. In the mean time he couldn’t avoid being contacted with a trunk of a plant which is less poisonous than leaf. Even though he had a minor swelling in his hand

No paths , Believing the guide’s instincts

Some clear sections too

Strange tree art

Open area

First remarkable water stream

Silent surrounding

Mushroom art

A two stream intersect …Don’t know whether this is the same place mentioned in Kishan’s report

Third stream

Beautiful..But hereafter we met a dangerous Maussa stretch ( Remember ROSA MALE NATUWE KATU )

Getting to a Pathana where we saw lots of elephant Dung

By 4.00 p.m. we reached the base of Duwili ella Which was a dream of us. Although this was my second visit my heart was filled with a fresh feeling . We decided to have a bath in the base and climb up to the cave to settle for night. After an awesome bath we reached the cave within 5-10 minutes. First thing we did was collecting plenty of firewood. Then we had a look at Famous place where you can observe the fall cascading in front you. This place is about 10m away from the place you sleep. Then we carefully collect some water , boiled and made Nescafe. then we laid some sheets on the floor of the room type section in the cave . Then we lit the camp fire and had some chit chat. Around 8.00 we had our packed dinner. After dinner we went to sleep. Till I fallen asleep I remember our guide’s stories which were their real adventures. They described the encounters they had with wild animals , ghosts etc. Although it was cold in the cave it was manageable than 2014 (in my first journey). May be due to the risen temperature in the whole world this year,

Our Dream . Duwili Ella. This was my second visit

Situation of the Cave is marked in Green Arrow

Having some awesome bath

Going towards the cave

Looking Down from cave

Inside the cave . In this part you can sleep and rest without troubled by splitting water

You have to go nearly 10m to observe “FALL CASCADING “

Here is the Dreamy place …..Dooooowili is in front of you

You can collect water or even have a shower by holding creepers B.U.T. AT YOUR OWN RISK….

Preparing Tea – PHOTO : DODAM/ DINESH

Starting The CAMP FIRE -PHOTO : DODAM/ DINESH

Sleeping In the cave -PHOTO : DODAM/ DINESH

Huh.. if you believe in Ghost s there is such a face marked by the circle. If you don’t It’s just a Tree art ….

Moonlight Directing To cave -PHOTO : DODAM/ DINESH

Dawn comes…Still moon in Dawn -PHOTO : DODAM/ DINESH

Here down Comes

Surrounding Mountains

We Woke up in the morning and prepared Nescafe. Then we left the place around 7.00 a.m. We descended from the left hand side of the stream. Note the path is marked by forest department  till Etanwala . After descending through the path for  nearly 300m we decent to the stream which was in our right hand side. After walking little upstream we witnessed the Most beautiful fall ( To My Ranking ) in the Duwili Eli Stream. (note :Actually there is another waterfall before this but getting closer to this falls is much difficult). This was my second visit to This fall thanks to Malaka’s Magical Map.( See my Previous Report on Duwili Eli ). After spending nearly 20 minutes there we decided to go down stream. We witnessed several small cascades like the shape of ” Staircase”. Then We reached the Top of a huge fall . One can’t descend to the bottom of the falls from here. From top of  this Falls there is a foot path to Ranamure . We had Bread with canned Tuna as breakfast and filled our bottles full and start descending to Ranamure around 8.30 a.m.

Getting ready to descend

Surrounding Mountains

Wow	Good bye Doowili Eli …We’ll come back

Our Next Target

Calm And quite Falls….You will feel like spending whole day here purely because of calmness

Crystal clear water

Getting downstream

Small cascades

Staircase falls

What a scenic place . From here there is a foot path to RANAMURE

More cascades

We had breakfast here

Top of the fall You can’t Decent to base From here

Kalu Malli And Punchi Banda Hero’s Of Day Three

After getting to Ranamure track we experienced a small ascend. Then we met a huge rock with a severe drop where you can observe surrounding mountains and grassy lands . There is a small stream too. After resting there for nearly 20 minutes we re-started the journey. After hiking for some while we met the first Pathana Land in this track . It’s Called GINIKELIYAWA PATHANA. In fact this was the largest too. There we met a bunch of cattle. They were brought here by the villagers of Ranamure in non harvesting period. As there were dead ends in this pathana they can’t move to other places . Only entrance point to this pathana is covered by using wooden Fence. After Ginikeliyawa pathana we entered a forest patch and descent. we met several streams too. Then We entered another Pathana which is called Asweddauma

In the Ranamure Track

The observation point with a severe drop. The bottom grassy land is called “MANAWA ” and upper one is called ” ILUKA”

Note this rock

He was happy of taking the decision of getting down to Duwili Eli

Panorama view

Closer to Ginikeliyawa Pathana

View from Ginikeliyawa Pathana

Ginikeliyawa Pathana

Pathana and the Cattle…They were little aggressive after seeing us

Pano view of Pathana

Still Thunhisgala is visible

D O D A M B R A V O….

Pathana And the mountains

Fence which I mentioned billow. We experienced descend after this

Dodam with tree Frame

Next Pathana which was shorter than previous ( Aswedduma Pathana )

View from Aswedduma Pathana

Panorama

After Aswedduma Pathana we experienced a continuous descend till Ranamure. on the way our guide punchi Banda showed us a small cave and we prepared our lunch there. First We boiled some water and made a soup using soup cubes. Then we prepared some instant  noodles. after having our last meal in the jungle we left. Then we met a special Y junction . If somebody comes from Ranamure the left path will lead to KMP bisecting Duwili Eli. And the right path will lead to Duwili eli Streams. It  took nearly one and half hours to reach Ranamure village.

View for a person coming From Ranamure Side Red Arrow – KMP by bisecting Duwili Eli Blue Arrow – Duwili Eli Passing Pathana lands

We were going parallel to the river

Last Fence

First Sign of civilization . First house of the village is closer to here.

After coming to the village around 2.30 p.m.Our Guide Punchi Banda Invited us to his home . We all refreshed ourselves by having a wash in a nearby stream. Punchi Banda offered us tea with biscuits. Then We thanked and said good bye to tem. Kalu Malli Helped us to pick a Three Wheeler from a village . We went to Pallegama From That and caught a Dambulla bus around 4.00 p.m. We were at Dambulla at sharp 6.00 p.m. Then we boarded to a Colombo Bus . We satisfied with some snacks as dinner. Dodam and Dinesh got down from Kadawatha as they intended to go to to Ganemulla. We got down at Dematagoda and took a three wheeler and came around 11.45 p.m.

So this is how we finished our memorable journey . There are so many discussion about “Which is the most difficult path to Duwili Falls ” Some say it’s Bambarella or Walpolamulla or even Meemure. But as a person who had done twice I would say each trail is rather difficult than other by means of unique parameters . By means of Ascend Meemure side would be tough. By means of distance and obstacles Etanwala/ Walpolamulla side is tough . But by means of getting lost I would say Bambarella/ kalupahana Trail is tough

But one thing is sure By means of the beauty and calmness This Kalupahana Area , which is almost the middle in Knuckles IS THE BEST PLACE IN KNUCKLES .

Good Bye Kalupahana We Will Come Back Soon

So We’ll Come Back Again

Thanks for reading

Little Adam’s peak is the having the shape of Giant “Maha giri damba” of Holy Sri Pada. This mountain is a very beautiful and a small mountain in Ella which having a great tourist attraction.

We came to Ella around 6.30am by night mail train from Colombo. When we get down to the Ella railway station there were many tourists among there. Most of them are divided to other roads and hotels to take a rest and we started our journey to Little Adam’s peak mountain by walk. We came to the Ella junction where the road dividing to Wellawaya, Kumbalwela and Passara/Namunukula/ Badulla. We walked along the Namunukula road about 2km and came to a bend at right hand side.

Again we walked along that small and narrow road about 1.5km where the road giving the entrance to 98 acres hotel complex. We saw that many tourists has already visited the mountain and going back to their hotels. Still the mist is around the Ella rock area. Motor bikes and even any vehicle can go up to the staircase at the LAP Mountain. Then we have to climb about 200m along the staircase. The bottom of the LAP Mountain is suitable for night camping but we have to think about the lightening on rainy days. Because the area is 360 degree open view area.

This mountain is build up with three same size mountains and all the area is totally in a green island. From here we can see the ella Rock, Rawana Fall and the beautiful snake type Wellawaya-Ella road. There are some rocks around the peak and there is a box type rock where we can get amazing photo shoots. That place is totally dangerous because a single slip will give you the death of falling to the bottom of the peak which is about 300/400m.

After we spend some time on LAP Mountain we left to Nanuoya to start the next adventure of the Great Western Mountain climb.

Thanks for reading..!

came via night mail and at the dawn of Kithal Ella

I will not tell the name of this tree

path to the Little Adam’s Peak

Ella Rock

Ella Rock range

Ella rock range and Bandarawela aera

That is the destination

This staircase will take you to the top

Helpful work for foreigners

Ella rock in a morning

The last part of the climb

Little adam’s peak mountain range

The slope

Good place for camping at the top of the LAPM

Surroundings

The other giant, Ella Rock

This is how we feel the sunshine

We at the top of the mountain

The mountain range

Ella Wellawaya road

Towards Karandagolla and Rawana Falls

The other side end of the LAPM

The box stone

.

nice view

The flying point via Ella Kapolla

Resting and feel the beauty

Towards Rawana ella area

Towards wellawaya area

The Little Adam’s Peak Mountain

The scary elephant encounter at Yala
We were almost attacked by a bull elephant in its musth last month. This bull elephant encountered us on the road from the Heenwewa Wild Life Dept bungalow. First encounter was unexpected, then we managed to evade just a second before it tried to smash Ashan’s vehicle. But then he came after us and we escaped that second encounter as well because we were facing the other direction, so we could drive fast.
But the third encounter scared us to death as the guy waited for us in the evening (close to 6 pm) and stood across the road blocking our way to the bungalow and charged head on leaving us with no other option than charging at him praying for our lives. Luckily at the last moment he moved away and we managed to escape.
These are the photos from the first two encounters took place in the morning and I was too scared to touch the camera during the 3rd encounter…!
1st Encounter:
oops.. an elephant ahead… a large one and he’s coming towards us..!
We were heading out of the Bungalow (this bungalow has only one access route. So we should take this road to connect to other roads inside the park. This elephant took us by surprise when it appeared from the bend ahead. We expected it to be a normal sighting, so, we stopped the vehicles and waited. But he did not stop coming towards us and more worryingly he showed clear signs of rage and aggression

first appearance

keeps coming

umm… he does not look very friendly. We can’t reverse the vihecle faster than him. so, just wait and see

aggressive

ehem, too close… right next to Ashan’s jeep (which was next to us) and he’s not moving.

Oh My God…! The call of war…!! took its own trunk into the mouth, silent than ever and looking furious…! just a 2 – 3 meters away from me and only a couple of inches from Asahn’s vehicle. too close for a photo (and defenetely not in a mood to pose for a photo). this was at the widest angle of my lens..!

The call of war.!

Do Not Come Back..!

Phew, somehow we (the driver and the guide) made noises and created a small window for us to escape. then it stood across the road, may be warning us not to come again…

The we drove another few hundred meters when we saw this small herd on the roadside and having a peaceful time watching them.

2nd Encounter :

nice little herd

.

Suddenly we saw something scary behind us. This guy had followed us all the way and took us by a surprise…! looked furious when he saw us…

.	Oh NO..! he’s following us

immediately pulled a tree branch

it’s not a small one. we better run away…

should I be worried about capturing it perfectly? hell no…! I am being chased by a furious elephant… Can’t remember how I managed to capture these

saw us moving away and he started charging…

Full Throttle

He was furious as we were getting away for the second time

after this we managed to evade him for the second time. but we encountered him for the third time on the same day when we were returning to the bungalow in the evening. He waited for us suddenly blocked our road some meters ahead and started charging towards us… Still it scares me to recall how close that escape was… no photos of that…!

Thank you for reading.

Hello everyone, hope things are ok and the scorching hot season has sort of eased a little bit with the arrival of thunderstorms. But with them come the danger of lightening, especially for hikers like us. Well hopefully you all have taken the safety measures before attempting any hikes. By the way, you might be feeling pretty awkward about the name of this report and wondering what on earth I’m getting at. Well, as we go on, you’ll realize the meaning behind it and I’m sure you will fully agree that this name suits really well.

As soon as you hear the name Sri Pada, there’s this calm and soothing sensation which goes through your system as if a nice cool flow of water through a parched throat. That mountain is so special even her namesake alone is enough to make us feel reinvigorated. I don’t think there exists any such mountain in the whole wide world that has been worshipped and visited as much as this despite her location in a tiny out of the way island in the Indian Ocean with nothing below it until the frozen Antarctic Glaciers. This is very special and it further proves by it being chosen to leave the footprint of one of the most respected and enlightened philosopher that walked on this earth some 2600 years ago, Gautama Buddha.

Since then, this has been worshipped by millions of devotees every year between Dec (Unduwap Poya) and May (Vesak Poya). However the situation has become a bit alarming due to the unprecedented crowds that gather to visit and worship the sacred footprint every year. If you were following the media (and supposing they were reporting the truth), there were reports of some 800,000 people visiting on long weekends and somewhere in April that figure rose to some 1.5 million. There were so many who were planning to go from Hatton but due to the large number of people ultimately ended up climbing from Kuruwita. Just imagine the plight of those people who were only prepared for an easy ride of 4-5km yet were forced to do 12+km. Most of them had been in tears by the time they had reached Galwangediya.

With the increased number of people go multiplied amounts of polythene and plastic, not to forget the tons of bio-degradable stuff either. All in all, there must be around 4 million people if not more, who visit the Sri Pada in the season which is just 6 months. If you were to do a few simple mathematical numbers, you’d sure to be fainted with the results. Human waste alone would come to hundreds and thousands of tons. Ok, let’s do some maths then.

“An average Asian person weighs about 57kg or 125 pounds. The average person poops at least once a day. An ounce of stool for each 12 pounds of human weight which means an average Asian person produces around 0.7 pounds of stool a day. So what about the urine then? The normal range per day is 800-2000ml with a normal fluid intake of about 2 liters per day. As we all know, those who climb the Sri Pada definitely drink more than 2 liters of fluids and eat quite a lot as well. However, let’s just keep the urine output to 1400ml per person. Ok, here’s the moment of truth.

0.7 pounds X 4 million = 2.8 million pounds of stool

1.4 liters X 4 million = 5.6 million liters of urine

Of course this is the average figure towards the lower end and the real figure is bound to go a lot higher than these numbers. So can you imagine the amount of bio-degradable human waste which is being unloaded at the Sri Pada in just 6 months? Not to forget the stinking smell which spread all over the place? Do you think any god would want to stay in a place like that?

How about you add all the other waste such as food leftovers, wrapping papers (biscuits, toffee, chocolate, drinks packets, etc.), polythene sheets and plastic items such as bottles, where would this number be? Unimaginable is the word that comes to your mind, isn’t it? And closely followed by words like Horrifying, Criminal, etc. Amount of fruits, rice and vegetables which they carry for religious rituals alone could be into millions of kilos.”

I know the famous argument which is being played everywhere. It’s the polythene and plastic which are the serial killers and everything else is bio-degradable. I wonder how anyone can justify the dumping of millions of tons of human waste on top of other waste within such a short period of time in one of the most sensitive and virgin forest reserves. The pollution caused alone by these bio-degradable wastes is so great and it must harm many endemic and other plants, animals and other species. If you begin to wonder whether I’m a scientist or an expert, perish the thought right away coz I’m none of them but an ordinary person with a bit of common sense.

Well now that I’ve homed my point in, let’s go on with the journey and see what is waiting for us in this sacred yet being destroyed place. I’ve a few more controversial propositions which I’d keep for the end bit otherwise you might even not go through the whole report and close the screen cursing me all the bad things you can think of. Well, I don’t want that kinda thing just yet, do I?

We left for Ratnapura on the 23 Apr around 3.30am and on the way, Janith and his US friend Craig joined us at Kuruwita. For those who curious, Janith is the son of one of Ana’s close friends and he’s studying in the US currently. His friend Craig had got this notion of visiting Sri Pada having seen a few pictures and read quite a lot about this majestic place. So they got down and joined us for this journey.

We reached Trail Head around 7.30am and started our journey after a vegetarian breakfast of Cheese Sandwiches. We remained vegetarian right throughout the journey and Craig, being an American, obliged without a second thought. The road condition from Rathnapura to Sri Palabaddala is ok and the road is still under construction up to the turn off where it forks into two, one leading towards Wewelwaththa-Balangoda and the other to Sri Palabaddala.

Tour Highlights: 

1. Palabaddala Trail.
2. Rajamale Trail.
3. Rolls Royce Museum, Plantation Hotel, Kitulgala.

Day 01

We sent the vehicle with the instructions to come on the following day to Fishing Hut to pick us up and got on the trail. Already there were many vehicles, notably the buses, parked waiting for pilgrims to come down and some were on the way up. We went and worshipped at the temple and mingled with the few people on the way up. It was a fine morning for a hike and we passed the shops which were selling all these artificial jewelries, flowers, ornaments, clay pots, sweets, toys, etc. Almost all the people tend to stop by and do a bit of window-shopping before getting on with the hike. However, those who climb down have eyes only for the safety of their vehicles.

It’s believed to have some 11,000-12,000 steps from the trail head to the summit on Palabaddala route. You will see that the steps are marked at every 100-foot point and there are almost 9000 steps (if I’m not mistaken) until you reach Galwangediya. As we went up passing the houses on either side of the concrete steps, there were many others coming down having spent the night travelling downhill. The humidity was unbearable as we kept sweating like pigs. Thankfully the path was shady thus making it not so uncomfortable to do the hike up.

One funny thing happened at the beginning of the hike. There was this Election Poster with the symbol of a Bell (you know the party name, don’t you?) and an X below it asking for our vote. Seeing this Craig looked perplexed and very quietly asked us “This means no bells allowed on the hike?” and we burst into a roar of laughter and he watched us with mixed feelings. Well, I’m sure it wasn’t the first time a foreigner was wondering the same thing and this wouldn’t even be the last time. Janith and Atha explained that it was how the begging of votes is conducted in Sri Lanka.

More surprisingly, Craig was the only Suddha (White Man/Foreigner) among the crowds. Usually the foreigners take the Hatton Route and most of them choose the off season to enjoy the hike and the nature. Commendably, those foreigners (notably the Europeans, Americans, Australians, Japanese, etc.) hardly ever, if not never, leave their garbage behind them littering the surroundings. It’s always the locals and some foreigners from you know where who do this ungraceful deed of polluting our Mother Nature.

Many local pilgrims took notice of Craig and attempted to dram him into some conversation using their limited vocabulary. There was one old lady (she was fitter than any of us despite her age) who kept encouraging us, especially Craig and even offered him mangoes couple of times. People were very amused to see him going with us and anyway with 6’ 4”, he couldn’t have been missed unless they were having sight issues in their eyes. After some hard laboring and constant breaks, we managed to reach the Ambalama just passing Lihini Hela and took a small break.

Most of the pilgrims took pleasure in throwing food items at the monkeys residing in nearby trees and watching them catch those tit bits and some even went so far to claim those monkeys were very good than most of our present cricket team in the field. Nevertheless, it was a very silly and careless thing to feed any wild animal and may I request at least you, who are reading this, not to do so in the future. Even I’m guilty of it and have done that in the past without knowing the repercussions so if you too are guilty of it; it’s never too late to stop now. Ok, here are some pictures on the journey so far before you get bored to death.

On the move

Very delicious and used worldwide, notably in Switzerland

Good colors too

Thank you soldiers, you not only won the war for us, but also, made this for millions of people

Life on the dead

Climbing was tougher than we thought

How many of us adhere to this? You may take but make sure to bring them back

Those handrails are a great help too

Between two steps in a crack I found him

“Hey, you had enough”

“Not enough mommy”

“See they also noticed how naughty you are”

“Welcome to Monkey Spa”

“Hey, we got more customers lining up”

“I’m gonna bite this off”

“Not enough milk mom”

Mummy fallen asleep

And son’s fallen asleep now

Plenty of them are there

Stairway to heaven, reminded me of Ritigala

We resumed our journey while the echoes of people calling for Lihini Akka were coming all around. Sri Pada has all these unique rituals and customs which you won’t find anywhere else. Those chants they sing while climbing up and down is another unique feature and most of the people, especially the older ones, believe that by singing along would make it easier for them to climb and reduce the exhaustion. Of course you’d find some modified versions of these as well which might not be that suitable to use in a place like that. However, it helps interact with the other pilgrims who you might not ever have come into contact with. You’d also be surprised at the length people go to help complete strangers.

There was a bit of unfortunate incident as well. There was this group who’d come from down south (most of the people who climb via Sri Palabaddala is from down south due to the easy access) and had one of the old lady missing for four days. They’d been climbing up and down, looking down at the crevices and in the forest shouting her name looking for her with the help of the police. Fortunately, we heard the same day night that she was found sitting on a rock inside the forest. As many believe, there’s very little chance of anyone coming to harm at Sri Pada so this was another point where it’s proven once again.

We went on further up and already we saw so much of plastic bottles and wrappers scattered either side of the trail, especially closer to shops and resting points where people had very carelessly dumped them with leftover food. The ranking smell wafting from them was so disgusting and I felt like throwing up many times. So much for the bio-degradable waste! Passing Dharmarajagala, Geththampana and Seetha Gangula, we finally arrived at Galwangediya around 2.30pm after a 7.5hr journey.

There were dark clouds threatening to break loose and we were glad when we came to the safety of the Ambalama at Galwangediya. We had lunch (rice & curry) at the co-operative shop in front of the Ambalama. However, I recommend the shop at the junction where Ratnapura and Kuruwita Trails meet each other. Their food is tasty and good quality. Both these places offer accommodation facilities if you need your own room but not sure about their quality or the comfort levels as I’ve never used them before. We were quite content with the Ambalama so after lunch went and found a corner for the night.

We were very grateful for the army soldiers of many regiments from the SL Army who’d spent so much time and efforts building the whole path with concrete steps. If it wasn’t for those, it’d’ve nearly impossible for us to climb from Ratnapura side. We could still see the old steps carved into the rocky surface parallel to the newly built concrete steps with handrails. No wonder it’s said that in the past people used to write their last will before attempting this pilgrimage. There are still iron chains hanging from the rock which people used to pull themselves up. There are a few on the last leg at Mahagiridamba passing Hulang Kapolla. Here are some pictures of the journey up to now.

Generation after generation

Old steps and the new ones side by side

Blossming

Must’ve been a back breaking task to do this

Imagine what it’d have been like without them

Craig and Janith ahead with the steps from two eras

Looking back

Dharmarajagala

Very steep and made it on the same old steps

Entering those tall trees

Taking turns like on the railway track

Looks like mini jack fruit

It’s a lot easier now

Colors

He too is climbing to the summit it seems

View from Heramitipana, Galwangediya is just below

Slow moving clouds

Such a treat to the eyes

Closer

And the summit

Night is coming fast

We hung around the Ambalama taking those pics you already saw and went down to the Galwangediya itself for dinner. We had rice again while Craig tasted Rotti with Lunu Miris. We even heard some people talking among themselves “Arun Bath Kala Suddhata Rotti Deela”. Janith had asked Craig to watch out for that word “Suddha” and he immediately spotted it and asked what they were talking about.

The night was dark but the lights at along the trail lit up the surrounding beautifully. The Pirith Chanting and the echo of the bell coming from the summit were soothing. We fell into a deep sleep until Janith’s calling brought us wide awake. “What’s the matter?” I asked having forgotten that we agreed to get up to see the Sri Pada lit up and the clouds cleared. As they were still suffering from jetlag and time difference (12 hours is quite a big difference almost like night and day), it was hard for them to fall asleep. So at 3am, shivering like skinless polar bears, we got up and took some pictures of this wonderful and heavenly place. Here are a couple of shots taken by Janith with his DSLR.

At 3am. Photo by: Janith

Photo by: Janith

After a chilling photo shoot-out which made us surpass all the Hollywood, Bollywood and Kollywood film directors combined, we went back to sleep and got up again at 5am. It was time to get ready and go to the summit. Our plan was to go up to the summit early to witness the sunrise but had to give that idea up due to the number of people going up. One of the workers on the shops claimed that he’d never seen such massive crowds ever before. So we can safely assume this was the most crowded and visited season ever.

Day 02

After a quick cup of tea, we went on our way around 5.50am. We had some snacks with us so kept munching on them while hiking. The next stop was Andiyamalathenna and then the summit itself. The sewerage system which was being built had been completed but there was a foul smell in that area. We heard that the whole system couldn’t be fixed due to the lack of power in the off season and financially it wasn’t viable. As a result, one major component was missing thus the reason for the bad smell. It was a grand thing to have built the system but leaving it half-done wasn’t probably a good idea.

It was still dark when we left Galwangediya but the sun was on his way up. We were sheltered from the morning sun by the shadow of the great mountain herself. Looking backwards, we could see the squarely shaped Kunudiya Pawwa which resembles Bathalegala and Sigiriya, getting lighted up slowly from top to bottom.

To our right was the twin peaks of Bena Samanala and to our left was the Seven Virgins. In between there were many other hills looking radiant in the morning golden rays. We made good ground and in exactly two hours reached the summit. As soon as we entered we saw huge piles of garbage collected on either side of the summit. People were cutting fruits and dumping them right over the parapet wall around the summit without giving a toss that they were polluting the environment by allowing those rotting fruits to stink the whole place overpowering the smell of the fresh mountain air. They were all selfishly interested in invoking blessings for themselves, even at the cost of the Mother Nature. If they thought the gods will look at them and bless them, they had another think coming.

The stench coming from rotting fruit and vegetable matter was so overpowering we just lost the interest to stay in the summit more than absolutely necessary. The sun was fully up and there was still a long queue from Hatton Route to go worship the sacred footprint. We went around quickly and worshipped from outside and got on our way. It was so saddening to see the pollution caused by our reckless and selfish pilgrims in the name of religion. Here are some pictures of our journey to the summit.

Can you see the Kunudiya Pawwa?

On the way up on a chilly morning

Can see the dark and the light clearly

Look at the half lit Bena Samanala too

This was so amazing

Kunudiya Pawwa with Seven Virgins to the right

Good morning!

Feeling cold

Inflated golf ball

Very curious

Drainage system with a bad smell spreading

One of the many water pumps

Silhouette of a bird

Looking for scraps on the steps

White-Eyed Bulbul

Can clearly see the white ring around its eyes

Very tiny but fluffy too

Seven virgins

Another common sight

He didn’t move so we were wondering if he was frozen

At the last shop before the summit

Bena Samanala, Sri Pada Shadow and Kunudiya Pawwa

One of the Bena Samanala Peaks, Kunudiya Pawwa, Seven Virgins with the Sri Pada Shadow

On the way to Dick Oya or Nuwara Eliya. Just imagine the aerial view they must be having

Twin Peaks of Bena Samanala

Seven Virgins and Andiyamalathenna Ambalama

Wind Gap or Hulang Kapolla

Mountains to the left of Bena Samanala

Seven Virgins in the background

Sun kept coming overhead

Seven Virgins and see the white line

Drainage pipes running to the collection point below. The white line is a metal ladder

Ok, this is just a pinch of the garbage I photographed

A lot more

What do you feel? This is so close to the sacred footprint

It’s good to do the rituals but do think about the pollution too caused as a result

If only…

Golden fence around the summit

Towards Hatton

Maussakelle in the distance

Craig doing the rituals after a long wait. This bell tower is really unnecessary at the top. Pic by: Janith

So how was the situation at the top? I just put only a handful of pics. In fact I could’ve taken million shots just like that, especially along the downhill on Hatton Route. It was really pathetic and disgusting. After about half hour where we took turns to go and worship, we started our descent without further delay coz staying up watching them raping this virgin environment was giving me heart attacks.

We started our descent and soon passed the Bhagawa Cave. It was yet another disastrous move to have cleared those trees and wines covering the cave. Now it’s being used to pile garbage sacks and some wooden planks. Some even claimed this was the long-searched Diva Guhawa. As soon as we passed it, there was so much of bread (made into sandwiches with some sort of paste in the middle) thrown either side of the trail. There were hundreds and thousands of rotting bread slices and looks like somebody’s efforts at giving a Dansala had gone horribly wrong. We thought the paste or whatever which was put in the sandwich must’ve gone bad thus resulting in throwing all the bread slices very conveniently over the railing on either side.

It was as if walking through the garbage dump at Kolonnawa. I had to put my camera way and hold a handkerchief to my nose until the end of Mahagiridamba where you need to take a right turn, through so much human waste, to enter the Rajamale Trail. So photographs were few and far between in that stretch. It was so horrible and frustrating I decided not to come again in the season at the time. I know I should’ve taken some pics to show you but my main priority was to get out of this stinking hellhole into the safety of Rajamale Trail.

There was another ongoing Dansala where they were serving rice and curry. Yet again, the lunch sheets with remaining rice and curry were piled up in bins which were overflowing and attracting crows and other birds who kept taking them here and there dumping those sheets among the green foliage where nobody could reach to pick them up even if they wanted to. I know it’s a noble act to feed people especially those who attempt such arduous hikes but one needs to think of the huge environment impact it’ll have on the nature.

Finally after it felt like a life time, we reached the safety of the Rajamale Trail and managed to avoid a few piles of human waste but Craig was not so lucky. We had to stop for about 15 minutes before he managed to clean himself and got on the way. While he does it, please enjoy these pics.

Getting down

Upper Gartmore and Gawarawila side

Dried up Maussakelle

Towards Yaka Andu Ella

Peace Pagoda

Usually you don’t see those brown islands

The seaplane going back

Zoomed in view

We followed the trail breathing some fresh mountain air at last out of that garbage pit. Even as I type, I seem to choke on my breath remembering how awful that experience was. Unlike my last time where we climbed to Sri Pada from this route, there was considerably a large amount of polythene and plastic items signalling that many had used this trail as well.

Reaching Sandagalathenna was the pinnacle of the journey and both Janith and Craig marvelled at the beauty unfolding their eyes. The sun was nearing the top of the sky thus the colors were not so glamorous like in my last journey. Nonetheless, I couldn’t take my eyes off. From there we made good ground and soon (well not so soon) were on the summer hut to find our van waiting faithfully for us. One funny thing about Rajamale Trail is that when you climb down only you will notice how steep that really is. Also it seems to grown in length as it never seems to end, especially the stretch between Sandagalathenna and Summer Hut. Here are the pictures of it.

On the Rajamale Trail

Through the tree canopy

Zooming in

See the huge Buddhist Flag

Not to be taken away

We met a similar one between a crack, remember?

Portrait view

Simply majestic

Colorful

Almost stepped on the fellow

Couldn’t get enough of them

Oh ho, saw quite a few around Sandagalathenna…

One of the best locations in Sri Lanka

You won’t get enough of it

Time to go

But not without a picture with me

Leaving her behind

She was very playful

Never ending grand views

Into the tea estate

Where our van was

Summer hut

The team. Pic by: Janith

We got on the van and left with a very sad feeling at the way this beautiful place is being invaded by the Cockroaches killing the Butterflies, thus the name for this report which you’ll find fits nicely. Not only Gods or Butterflies, even Devils won’t stand so much pollution. Well what to do? I’ve a few suggestions which might stir up a hornet’s nest. Well I’ll come to it after I show you the Rolls Royce Museum.

We stopped at Plantation Hotel for lunch which is owned by Dr. Jayasuriya and he’s built a museum for a number of old Rolls Royce cars. It’s said the place is not big enough to house all the cars he has. One noticeable car was the one Queen Elizabeth drove when she visited Sri Lanka. Here are the pictures for you while we have a hearty lunch.

The Rolls which driven the Queen

Lusty red

Elegant black

Proud looking

Sexy blue

Mini Cooper reminding us of Mr. Bean

Now would you like to see a couple of Panos as well? Coz I can’t remember attaching any in the recent reports. Here are a few.

5 Mountains in one. Bena Samanala, Kunudiya Pawwa, Seven Virgins and Shadow of Sri Pada

Bena Samanala, Kunudiya Pawwa & Seven Virgins

From Sandagalathenna

So how do you like the journey? I know it’s been not so nice coz of the garbage and pollution. And here are my controversial theories or propositions to make this a better place and save it for the sake of us all. Coz this mountain alone feeds so many rivers in Sri Lanka which in turn helps us enormously in our day-to-day use with drinking water, agriculture, factories, etc. It’s of paramount importance we safeguard this place, not only coz it has the footprint of Lord Buddha, but also, it helps us live in many ways. So whether it is religion’s sake or environment’s sake, we must safeguard this wonderful place like our own eyes.

• As you all know, almost everyone who gets to the summit, try to donate some money for the fund there. It’s done in a way of cleansing their sins or bad times. I wonder if those who manage this fund (which I’m sure is not being audited) would be kind enough to recruit people to clean the three main trails during the season. I’m sure it’d require a lot of manpower, probably about 100 in total if we divide them 30 each into the Ratnapura and Kuruwita and 40 for Hatton. So how much money would we need in order to maintain this workforce? Back to my mathematical table. If we pay, Rs. 2000/- per day, for the whole season we would need 36 million rupees (100 X 180 X 2000). I know it sent your eyebrows so far up and they almost touched your hairline above the forehead. Is 36 million so big a price to pay for our own well-being? Now, there’d be a huge uproar saying how on earth are we to find that money coz we don’t get donated that amount to the fund? Well, if it is the case, I’ve another suggestion, a very wild one but doable.
• How much is your satisfaction when you are able to climb to the summit? Can you ever measure it with any of the metric parameters available? I don’t think so. That’s why we have expressions such as “Kotiyak Deela Wath Ganna Be”. So isn’t it worth to keep this place safe and sound for us to come back again and again? It is. So what we can do? Would Rs. 10/- make you bankrupt? Surely not. So what if there was a system to issue tickets for the pilgrims to buy at all three trail heads, there’d be money to fund the whole cleaning project every year without an issue. Of course, it’ll have to be managed without corruption as we know how money goes AWOL and end up in Panama and other offshore accounts. There might be some who are vying up for the argument of selling tickets to a religious pilgrimage wanting to crucify me for suggesting this. Well, all I have to say for them is look at or read what Lord Buddha preached properly before taking the sword to kill me.
• If ticket selling is so much of a criminal act, we can also have a fund at the trail heads but it’ll be too difficult task to manage as it’d require a lot of book keeping and account balancing. The chances of money going for walks are also very high.
• I wonder if it’d be practical or viable to limit the number of people entering like they did are planning to limit the number of Jeeps in Yala. Well this is yet another line from my own wild imagination and is bound to stir up more hornets’ nests.
• Now for one of the most sensitive and controversial points I wanna make. How about not allowing people to carry all those fruits and vegetables to make rituals as they in the end play a major role in piling up the garbage at the summit? These rotting food matters keep stinking the whole of summit along with the toilets making that place uninhabitable for anyone let alone butterflies or gods. Instead they all can contribute to the fund at the summit for the daily rituals conducted at certain times. Well, the blessings you invoke will still be the same so long as your thoughts are pure. You don’t necessarily have to do them individually, do you?
• Ban the Dansal or enforce strict rules to monitor them and make sure nothing is added to the environment and everything is taken back down by those who organize them. If you can’t do so, well, it’s better not to do them at all and add to the pollution of this sensitive environmental habitat.
• Further, what if we removed that huge bell tower which was erected couple of years ago taking up a substantial space on the already cramped up summit floor? I feel it is unnecessary to have such a huge bell making so big a boom and we all know what the sound pollution is, don’t we? I guess those who did this thought the bigger the bell and more the merits gained. The echoes generated by ringing that huge bell can also destabilize the rocky bed where the summit is located along with its buildings. I wonder whose bright idea it was to have that bigger bell tower in the first place as there were a couple of nice and small bells already which took up virtually no space.
• Also, the pilgrims shouldn’t be allowed to ring that bell more than once despite the number of times they’ve been to the summit before. It’s more of an ego-massaging exercise than a ritual nowadays as people keep ringing the bell while many others waiting for a chance. And they do so by pulling hard at the rope sending shock waves all along the mountain range. Nobody else is interested, let alone God Saman, about the number of times you’ve been to the summit. Also, you don’t get any advantage or a bonus as a result of the numbers. So why deprive others of their chance of this ritual by just doing it once and moving away?

Now I know what you’re wondering. Sri is the perfect role model and as a result he’s qualified to preach all these to the rest of the world? Well, I’m not and even I’m guilty of committing these mistakes to a certain extent. Nobody is perfect but what really important is to learn from our mistakes and avoid them in the future. More importantly, convey that message to the next generations so that they’d be properly educated about the value of places like Sri Pada. Not just the religious value, but also the environmental value. Let’s hope there’ll be some strict measures taken before it’s too late to preserve this place. It should not however be a tug-a-war between the Wildlife Department and Ministry of Buddhist & Religion Affairs. This is our heritage and treasure so we all need to contribute to its preservation for the years to come.

Well, folks, that’s about from me on this journey. Hope you enjoyed it despite the frustration and sorrow involved in. if I’ve hurt anyone’s morals or feelings by my controversial ideas, I sincerely apologize as it was never my intention to do so. Also, they might not be the best of solutions but I just listed down the things I thought would be ideal to make things easier and safer for the future.

Take care and keep travelling!

I wanted to do something new so decided to go through Google maps and thought of heading towards Bogawanthalawa on a Saturday morning with Chamara. First day we had a failed attempt on Kotagala mountain which we only managed 60%. So after a tiring attempt we decided to call it a day and we lodged at Bogawanthalawa.

Bopaththalawa is a plain just like Horton plains and I still remember that it was mentioned in our social studies syllabus while schooling. It may be a small plain but it’s a lovely isolated location surrounded by mountains. Our main intention was to climb Bopaththalawa mountain so we could have a clear view towards unfamiliar regions.

The map – click to enlarge

Google view – click to enlarge

the gap from Bogawana division which leads to Bopaththalawa

Bopaththalawa hill

as seen from Bogawanthalawa

Next day morning we had breakfast at Bogawanthalawa and we headed along the north cove road for few hundred meters until we came across a road to the left with a name board saying Bogawana division. With the aid of Google maps we were able to drive up to SD bungalow of Lynsted division. We halted our vehicle at this point and started walking with estate workers who were headed to Bopaththalawa farm. It was a 30 minute walk to reach Bopaththalawa plains and last part was a zig zag ascend (some call it Jacob’s ladder). Always there are people traveling along this path because they go to work at the farm. The path merges with the flat path of Bopaththalawa and we diverted from the main path at this point.

Bogawana division

Lynsted division where we halted the vehicle

the gap towards bopaththalawa

beautiful tea country

the foot path

along the zig zag path

looking back from the path

oh lovely

ah finally entered Bopaththalawa

Showing the path

The grassy mountain was an easy climb and we first climbed on to a flat rock which was clearly seen from Bogawanthalawa. After hanging around a bit we crossed over to the main rock and started ascending. It took us about 40 minutes to get to the rocky top. Though the mountain range extended towards the Elabedda range we decided to stop at the scenic point.

opposite peak

climbing the flat hill on the left

Kirigalpoththa seen

Hypnale sp’s

on top of the flat rock

peace pagoda of Nallathanniya seen

view towards Norwood

on the top

kirigalpoththa

The view on one side was all about Bogawanthalawa, Norwood, Castlereigh & Adams peak. On the other side we clearly saw the whole of Bopaththalawa plain and farm, Kirigalpoththa, Agrabopath, Thotupola, Mipilimana range, Hakgala, Great western, Piduruthalagala and Dolosbage range. The summit was a panoramic one and we enjoyed taking few panoramas for few minutes before descending back.

next we headed towards the Bopaththalawa proper

bopaththalawa plain seen on the way

sloped

more to climb

slope increasing

Sri pade

where we came from

nice place to camp

towards the sky

great western on the left and hakgala on the right

bopaththalawa

the farm

last bit

looking back

castlereigh reservoir and seven virgins at the backdrop

extension of peak wilderness

summit of SL

probably dolosbage range

getting closer

ah almost there

rocky

towards great western

agrabopath – Kudagala on left and kirigalpoththa on right

totupola on right

towards Bogawanthalawa

Sri pade

Norwood

Bogawanthalawa town

virgin forest

Piduruthalagala

towards HP

the farm – plain

towards Bogawanthalawa

the drop

Bopaththalawa range

Bogawana

lovely place

Bopaththalawa

pano towards norwood

pano towards bopaththalawa

what a scenery

the grassy plain

Our descent was a quick and less exhausting one. Though we gained an altitude of 500m’s it wasn’t felt a bit because of the climate. Once we got to Bogawanthalawa we noted that the mountain was almost covered with mist and we were happy with our early ascend. From Bogawanthalawa we headed towards Thalawakele for the next adventure saying good bye to Bopaththalawa.

lovely

free as a bird

the adjecent flat hill

scenic

the peak we climbed

going back

view from jacobs ladder

Objectives of this trip were to visit at famous view points of Haputhale and Koslanda and camping at Pilkington point of Punagala. I have been at Pilkington point and Millennium point 7 years ago but it was a gloomy day.

These viewpoints are: Lipton seat, St.Catherene seat, Pilkington point and Millennium Point

We started the journey from Haputhale town and drove along Dambatenne road to reach famous view point called Lipton seat. The drive from Haputhale via Dambatenne to Lipton seat was scenic.

Haputhale Town

Haputhale-Dambatenne Road

View on our way to Lipton seat

Reflection

Dambatenne Tea Factory

Blue+Green

Dambatenne Tea Estate

Dambatenne Tea Estate

View on our way to Lipton seat

The road to Lipton seat

The road to Lipton seat

The road to Lipton seat

The view on our way to Lipton seat

Lipton seat (4695 ft)
Lipton seat is a view point of almost 3600 view, situated at the edge of Dambatenne Tea Estate. It was a famous view point for Sir Thomas Lipton who was the pioneer of branded Ceylon tea-Lipton Tea. From Lipton seat you can view Uva, Sabaragamuwa, Central, Eastern and Southern provinces.

Lipton Seat

Lipton Seat

Sir Thomas Lipton at Lipton seat

History of Dambatenne Tea Estate

View of St.Catherene seat from Lipton seat

Zero view from Lipton seat

Lipton seat

Lipton seat

Lipton seat and nearby boutique

At Lipton Seat

Dambathenna Tea Estate

After visiting Lipton seat we wanted to drive towards St.Catherene seat where few transmission towers are placed. We asked from villagers and drove according to direction boards. The road condition to St.Catherene seat after main road was terrible and only can be managed with a 4W vehicle. At the end we came to the place of ITN and Swarnawahinee towers are situated. Surrounding view was gloomy and we didn’t need to enter transmission towers premises though can be go through the gate.

St.Catherene seat

St.Catherene seat

Awaiting at St.Catherene seat

Isolated tower situated closer to St.Catherene Point

Following St.Catherene seat we were rushed to reach Pilkington point as it was late evening. We got directions from locals in few points and road condition was satisfactory up to Punagala junction.

Nayabedda tea factory. We had to pay to go through the gate of it.

Where Koslanda landslides happened

Surrounding view

Directions at Punagala-Koslanda road in between 9th and 10th kilometer post

Pilkington point (4600ft)
This view point was named by Late Sir George Pilkington in 1898. It provides about 2000 view. In a clear day you can see Wellawaya, Katharagama Kiri Wehera, Moneragala, Embilipitiya and Udawalawe etc.

We planned to camp there as I expected it a different experience. We followed the road from Nayabedda to Punagala and then towards Koslanda. There was a four way junction soon after Punagala ground and we selected the concrete road upwards to reach the Pilkington point. We stopped the vehicle at last line houses closer to Pilkington point where we noticed an elephant was roaming on top of the mountain. It was our first experience of Punagala elephants and just few meters before the view point we had a punch at tire. It made our arrival to Pilkington point around 6.30pm amid of dark.

Camping at Punagala
This was kind of a different experience of camping as camp site was accessible by vehicle easily. There is a summer hut but can’t be a good shelter in a rain. Next to the summer hut you can attach the tent and can make camp fire. We made the camp fire with the challenge of wind. It was dam difficult to do anything at Pilkington point due to wind. Elephants can roam around but we didn’t see them close by.

Pilkington Point-Details

Our tent at Pilkington point

Making camp fire at Pilkington point

At camp fire of Pilkington point

Cooking….

Camp fire

Illuminated nearby towns

Morning sun rise over Namunukula

Morning sun rise over Namunukula

Morning sun rise over Namunukula

Sun rise

Second summer hut somewhere down the first one

What a view!

Breathtaking view

Breathtaking view

Early morning view

Good for a profile picture

Good for a profile picture

A rainbow over Punagala

What you can see over there at Pilkington Point

Towards Ella

Wadinahela (mountain situated at Wellawaya-Colombo road) and Handapanagala Lake

Land marks at Pilkington point

Elephants in Punagala/පූනාගල අලි
My first visit to Punagala was in 2010 and we have noticed elephant dung closer to Millennium point. It was my first experience of Elephants roaming on hills. But we didn’t encounter any of them at that time.
This time I was lucky and could see elephants thrice.

Elephants in Punagala-circled

Elephants in Punagala-circled

Elephants in Punagala-circled

Makaldeniya Ridge
This is something I heard from a friend which is situated closer to Pilkington Point. According to his description it is a flat mana filled area similar to Hortain plains. We have walked along the estate road for about 1 km and turned up at the edge of the rocky area. This foot pathway brought us to the top of tea estate where one elephant was roaming that day early morning next to this. Then there was a slope and we could see a fairly flat mana area somewhat far away probably what he mentioned as Makaldeniya Ridge.

Get the turn up to reach the top of tea estate

Foot pathway along the tea patch

At the top of tea estate

View of Millennium point

View towards Balathuduwa, Gommolliya and Wangedigalkanda

Elephant Dung

Supposed to be the Makaldeniya ridge

Supposed to be the Makaldeniya ridge

Supposed to be the Makaldeniya ridge

Along the tea estate

A source of wild fire

Pilkington point and second summer hut shown in arrow

Construction of Uma Oya project

Millennium point
Millennium point is situated about 2.5 km away from Pilkington point and direction is mentioned in front of Pilkington point. This distance is along the estate road is 2.5 Km and can be cut down in half if you follow along short cuts via tea bushes.
We encountered 2nd Jumbo at Punagala when we were going to Millennium point. He was about 200m away from us and gave an angry look towards us. With taking the risk we decided to go up to Millennium point.
Millennium point is higher than Pilkington point and provides 360 degree surrounding view towards Wellawaya, Haputhale, Ella etc.
I was lucky enough to have clear view which reminded my first visit to this place in a gloomy day 6-7 years ago. Summer hut has lost its sheets and remained part gave a different appearance. After finishing photo shoot we came back with afraid of the elephant. But he was still at the same place without moving towards foot pathway.

Jumbo we encountered on our way to Millennium point

Jumbo we encountered on our way to Millennium point

Reaching Millennium point

Visit of Millennium point in 2010. Please note the status of summer hut.

Millennium Point

Millennium Point with it’s summer hut

Millennium point

View from Millennium point-On top of like a ridge

View from Millennium point-Wellawaya area

Nearby tea estate. Tea pluckers are seen in white dots

View from Millennium point-Towards Makkaldeniya ridge

View from Millennium point-Towards Haputhale

View from Millennium point-Towards Haputhale

View from Millennium point-Towards southern plains

Might be the last shot if elephant attack would happened

Thanks for reading

Hello my friends hope you’re doing well and not being roasted alive on a stick. The sun had got very ferocious showing no mercy whatsoever. I hope you enjoyed my Pictorial Story 1 from Wilpattu where we spent two full days roaming along the muddy and flooded tracks looking for the Holy Grail with no luck. However as we were down and out, a Sloth Bear took pity on us and paid a quick visit about a few kms from the entrance thus making our efforts somewhat fruitful.

I hope you liked the new version of report which I’ve introduced which sort of told you the story of our wildlife, especially the plight of them in Wilpattu thanks to a Government Minister who’d taken the law into his hands destroying many acres of precious lands belonging to the buffer zone of Wilpattu by giving it to his supporters. It’s just pathetic the way things happen even though the Ministry of Environment is under the President himself. We also saw how they started building Mini Hydro Power Plants at Handagiriya destroying many more cascades very recently. It’s just so saddening to see the people who’ve been elected to safeguard these things help destroy them for monetary benefits. I hope they will soon see the erroneous ways they’ve been handling our natural resources and get back on track to protect them. However the million dollar question is, “Will it be too late?”.

So, just like that journey, I’m going to plunge straight into business and leave the fairy tale stuff aside. I’m sure the story of the wildlife in Kumana, the farthest away from Colombo, is much more interesting than my vivid imagination. However, just a bit of foreplay wouldn’t be too much to bear I suppose. Well, the newest of our crazes has become the wildlife, probably due to the less appealing states of my beloved waterfalls. Thankfully Hasi too shares the same taste and ever since Wilpattu, we’ve started to manic chase of our wildlife.

So during the Wilpattu journey and amid chit chats, we decided to do Kumana as soon as the time permitted coz it’s probably the farthest located Wildlife Park in Sri Lanka. If you’re not from Colombo or surrounding areas, I’m sure you’d agree. Well, here’s a list of National Parks in Sri Lanka administered by the Department of Wildlife if you’re not familiar with them.

• Yala National Park
• Wilpattu National Park
• Gal Oya National Park
• Kumana National Park
• Udawalawe National Park
• Lahugala Kitulana National Park
• Maduru Oya National Park
• Wasgamuwa National Park
• Flood Plains National Park
• Somawathiya National Park
• Horton Plains National Park
• Bundala National Park
• Lunugamvehera National Park
• Minneriya National Park
• Kaudulla National Park
• Hikkaduwa National Park
• Pigeon Island National Park
• Horagolla National Park
• Galway’s Land National Park
• Angammedilla National Park
• Ussangoda National Park

Ok, guess it’s time we got on with the journey. We left Colombo around 2am even though we were planning on leaving at 12 midnight. Hasi had taken care of the pre-journey tasks such as booking the Thunmulla Bungalow which is extremely difficult as it is the only one in Kumana. He’d also paid an advance to Sena, our Jeep Driver, and fixed some water bottles (5-litre) and all the other little things. We reached Potuvil and met Sena and he helped us leave our car in one of his friend’s house in the town. Please be warned that there are many jeep drivers in Potuvil who are trying to just rob you in broad daylight as Anton had very truly mentioned in his report. So try and get Sena to accompany you by all means. He’s also taking parties to Kebaliththa so if you’re doing Kebaliththa, you can still contact him unless you’ve found some reliable contacts from elsewhere.

If you want to buy any stuff, you can do so at Potuvil (there are two well-known supermarkets). Also, Panama (now don’t get too confused with Panama files) too has some groceries where you can get essential stuff. There are some archaeological sites both inside and outside Kumana. You’ll find many typical black archaeological signs on the way after Monaragala and Lahugala. Kudumbigala is at the border of the Kumana NP and before Panama town, you can see Sashthrawela and many others.

Inside the park there are a few more archaeological sites such as Nelumpath Pokuna, Bowaththa Cave Complex, Bambaragasthalawa, Okanda Devalaya, Kuda Kebaliththa, Kebaliththa etc. You’re not allowed to go to the Nelumpath Pokuna Archaeological Site but there’s a pond some distance before the site you can get see. Bowaththa Cave Complex and Bambaragasthalawa can be visited with the help of the tracker. Unlike Bowaththa Cave Complex, it’d take almost a day to visit the Bambaragasthalawa due to the distance and the difficulty of the track. I’ve noted down some historical information on Nelumpath Pokuna and Bowaththa Cave Complex below.

Nelumpath Pokuna

—This is a rocky mountain of around 286ft in height. There are two huge rocky fountains situated on one such mountain which are not affected even during dry season. It’s true to admit that these two rocky fountains are unparalleled creations of nature serving wild beasts to quench their thirst. There are few pagodas on top of the mountain which have been devastated by treasure hunters. A stone script on one of these rocks dates back to King Kanishtatissa Era (167-186). According to that, in the past this place had been called as “Gosagalamahavihara”.—

Bowaththa Rock Cave Temple

—It’s very difficult to trace the real historical facts of this place as no historical study or survey had been conducted. Even such, it is possible to unearth a few historical facts related to this place by studying the book written by Ven. Ellawala Medhananda Thero having studied the stone scripts found in the premises, “Eastern Province & the Sinhala Buddhist Heritage in Northern Province”.

 According to the book, there are four prominent stone scripts found in the place. Two of which are referring to a King named “Jettatissa” who was the son of the “Great King Mahasena”. This book further sheds light on evidence from stone scripts to effect that the Great King Jettatissa had contributed to various religious activities in Ruhuna as mentioned in the “Mahavamsaya”. It further reveals that one such script reveals about conducting a Pooja by King Jettatissa in 8 A.D. for making way to “Ariyawansa Pirith” Sermon. According to the views of Medhananda Thero, Boawaththagala Cave Temple has been named as a place where the very famous Ariyawansa Sermon had been conducted.—

Ok, brace tight folks and here we go.

Some of the Tour Highlights:

1. Bowaththa Rock Cave Temple.
2. Gal Amuna Camp Site.
3. Kuda Kebaliththa Devalaya.
4. Plenty of Birds & Wildlife

Day 01

We came to the park entrance around 11am and went in. There’s a museum at the ticketing office with plenty of skeletons and other form filled creatures. We were planning to go straight to the bungalow after an hour or so coz the check-in time is 12 noon. Here’s the story of them until we go settle down at the bungalow.

“Yo! I’m the Pied King Fisher”

“I’m the Lesser Adjutant or you very insultingly call me as Thatta Manawa”

“Oh, I’m the Black-Headed Ibis”

“Can you see my reflection? I’m a Grey Heron”

Okanda Devalaya where people gather before the Pada Yathra across Kumana and Yala

Well, it’s a Ramsar Wetland too (Click image to enlarge)

Well, now you’ve seen that Kumana was also named as a Ramsar Wetland and if you wonder what Ramsar Wetlands are, just click on the link and it’ll be directed to the information on that. For your benefit, I’ve just put the list of Ramsar Wetlands in Sri Lanka below with the size of them in hectares. According to that, Kumana is the second largest after Wilpattu.

List of Ramsar Wetlands in Sri Lanka

Ok, shall we go on the journey then?

Very nicely done

A great pity to see the number of jumbo, especially the tuskers being killed like this

Gosh, even I got scared

This was on the roof and there were 2 of them.

Get a sense of the distance

Nicely done and maintained

Oh, look at them

“Oh hi, you know me, don’t you? You’ll also see our proud Chestnut Headed folks too”

“Who asked you to take my pictures?”

“Oh hi, I’m the Maha Mugatiya”

The giant hearth. Just imagine the size of the people who cooked in such a huge pot

A nice bridge across Bagura Lagoon

Must belong to an eagle

If you’re willing to see pictures of the Thunmulla Bungalow, please click on the link so that it’d direct you to the post I’ve published. I purposely left of them from the report as I wanted to put more pictures of the wildlife. Now that we’ve arrived at the bungalow, it’s time to take stock of the situation and get our cooks to make some lunch for us while we unpack our baggage and take a break coz we’ve been on the go for the past 10+ hours.

Our two young chefs were very efficient and the smell wafting from the kitchen was churning the worms in my tummy. We waited with the greatest difficulty and the moment it was served to the table, we swarmed over it like a pack of wolves. After lunch, we were restless coz we wanted to get out and explore but the sheer hot conditions prevented us getting out and the animals would be in the shades too. So around 2.30pm, we embarked on our evening voyage, a voyage which is to be treasured for the rest of my life.

“Now stop that shooting right now”

“Can’t you just leave a woman to have a bath?”

He’d just walked along this road, even on top of the tyre marks

“Don’t think I’ve got sore eyes”

“Be careful”

“Got my buddy’s marriage tomorrow”

“Hey, what’s up?”

“Fellas, that jackal is around, watch it”

“I’ll just settle for some more of these lush grass”

“Hmmm, juicy”

“Will have to run and hide”

Bowaththa Rock Cave Complex

Our next stop was to visit the Bowaththa Rock Cave Complex which is located about 50m off the main jeep track. This is one of the few places you’re allowed to get down but always adhere to the advice of the tracker as you’re entering into the dangerous territory. The bears tend to roam these caves and you need to be extra vigilant when you’re going around. Always stick together as a group and don’t get separated whatever happens.

On the way

This is called Gal Kema (ගල් කෑම / කෙම)

Another

Must’ve been used for drinking or bathing

There it is

From the front

Writings on the drip ledge

Some more scripts found on the rocky surface

Despite the low number of visitors, this kind of vandalism can still be seen. You just can’t believe what kind of psychotic ill-minded people they are

Stone steps still visible

Time to go before the bears arrive

Back to Wildlife Exploration.

The time was flying and sun was dipping fast. We decided to turn around can go back to base. However little did any of us know that we were about to make first-ever contact of the most sought-after animal in Sri Lanka, the Leopard. It was so sudden and none of us was expecting it when that happened. It took Gayan by so surprise he’d found it unable to utter a word and point him to us. Thankfully our guide was so sharp and he pointed us in the direction.

I just couldn’t believe my eyes. There was this beautiful animal about 100m away standing on his hind legs and scratching at a tiny wood apple plant. He stopped doing that and looked at us coz of the noise of the Jeep. Then started slowly walking away into the jungle. The light was so dim and the foreground grass made it too much of work for our point-n-shoot cameras. I was trying to get the camera to focus properly but managed only couple of pictures with average quality. Well, this was anyway a great sighting and hopefully there’d be many more in the future coz we’d keep coming. Here are the rest of the pictures for the day.

“Hey, can barely see you”

“Hey, you are too late”

“Sorry, not today, probably another time. My wife won’t be happy if I got late”

“Where was this rabbit?”

“Don’t be deceived. I’m not from Ambalangoda and not a puppet head either.”

View from the bungalow

“Do you see anything strange of me?”

We finished a hearty dinner held a cabinet meeting as to what to do on the following day. Our initial plan was to go to Bambaragasthalawa on the second day but when we put our idea to Sena and our tracker, they said it’d take a whole day to go cover it. We actually didn’t wanna spend a whole day on archaeology having come so far. So after a lot of arguing and counter arguing, we all agreed that Bambaragasthalawa would have to wait even though it was very important and beautiful as we had to give priority to the wildlife. Our sighting of the leopard this evening sort of made a strong point in this regard.

Oh, it wasn’t the only thing we argued about. Most of the time we couldn’t figure out whether it was a male or a female when it came to birds and animals and my theory was hotly contested by Hasi and Gayan whereas their wives were all in favor. I told them that if it was a very beautiful one, it was the male and not so beautiful fella was the female. It’s only among the Humans and Horses we’d see the females more beautiful than the males. However, Hasi and Gayan were not in agreement so we went to bed with that though in mind in the upper dormitory where there are 8 beds with mosquito nets. Well, you’re welcome to share your ideas on this hot topic.

The night was calm and relatively cooler. There was the noise of the wind and the tree branches fluttering in the winds. Then there were noises of buffaloes crossing the tank in front of the bungalow in large numbers. A few other animals too made some unintelligible sounds and it sort of put us into sleep. Tomorrow we’d be packing our breakfast and leaving early in order to save time and increase sightings.

Hello folks, here I’m with the second day of our marathon run at Kumana NP. Hope you guys enjoyed the journey on day 01 and ready for another day of wildlife. Let’s get going then folks.

Day 02

We got up and took a few pictures of the moon and the tank in front while the breakfast was being prepared. Here are a few.

Good morning! The moon was dipping to the west

The morning sun falling on the tops of the trees

We went to the tower which has been built for bird watching. However there were not very good sightings so we went on our early morning safari and there were a couple of other jeeps too but it was not a mad rush like in Yala or at Wilpattu. That’s one advantage of Kumana coz of its location, only a few groups go there and hardly ever you’ll get half-day tours. I hope it’ll stay like that forever. If only they can limit the number of jeeps entering to Yala (I heard that there are 400+ jeeps operating there) in order to make it more pleasant to the visitors and bearable to the wildlife as well.

Oh, we got very lucky coz we managed to photograph a pair of Black-Necked Storks aks Ali Manawa that are very rare to find. They’re apparently the tallest birds found in Sri Lanka (I’m sure our bird experts like Dhana can provide us with the exact details) with a height of around 129-150cm (51-60inches). We only managed a couple of long range shots but come tomorrow rather in the next report coz we’ll have some stunning images of them for you. Here we go:

“Get off my back you brute!”

“Hey, what are you doing?” – “You got a big tick here man”

“Hey, don’t die on me”

“Hey, how do I look?”

“Got it but got a scratchy limb here”

“This is our community toilet”

“I lost most of my sexy feathers due to this severe drought”

“Time to go look for some delicacies”

“I know I look Royal”

“Hey, do you know that I’m the tallest?”

“Hey, just you wait”

“Must go behind these”

“Must go behind these”

“I’m in the Great Seal of US with a bunch of arrows and an olive branch”

“Hey honey, how’s my dance?”

Bird Watching Hut

Well, water levels are a bit more in Kumana Willu

“I’m feeling sad today”

“Look, you need to find a partner like us and enjoy the life”

As you might have noticed there were only a few birds we could see from the tower despite our early arrival at the point. Ok, let’s go and see if we can get lucky with some more sightings before I wrap it up for this report and meet you again with the next episode. Oh by the way, we were also able to go see a rocky cave used by an ex LTTE Terrorist Leader. He’d tried to build a fully pledged bungalow by laying a foundation stone as well but thankfully our heroic soldiers managed to end the brutal control of those barbaric killers just in time. Our tracker said in the past when the East was more or less controlled by those LTTE killers, they’d killed so many animals, especially the leopards for their skin and others such as deer, wild boar, buffaloes, etc. for meat. That damage was irreparable and it’d take so long for it to get back to normal if it ever does. However the poachers and henchmen of the powers that be might continue this from where the LTTE left. Keeping our fingers crossed, let’s hope for the best.

“Olu Pipeela Wila Lela Denawa Sudata Sude Nango”

“Hey, you think this is Kumana Star Contest?”

“That’s the thing and I’m the Kumana Star anyway”

“Hi, I’m Kithala or Purple Swamphen”

Looks glamorous

“There’s a nice Willu here”

Here it is

Tons of leopard and bear poo

Lush greenery beyond

“Hey, you see my broken tail”

“Hmmm, where did that little one go?”

Gal Amuna Camp Site

This is probably one of the best camp sites in the whole country. We actually wanted to go and see the famous Gal Amuna which had apparently been built so long ago across Kumbukkan Oya in order to stop sea water flowing inland making the water in the river not usable. It’s about 1.5-2km from the river mouth and located with plenty of shade from mammoth Kumbuk Trees. Usually you’re not allowed to go into the camp site when it’s been booked by another party as it’d be an intrusion into their privacy. However we were wanting so badly to see the Gal Amuna so our tracker offered to go and check with the residing party if we could go take a few pictures and return.

Thankfully they welcomed us and allowed us to go and see the place to our sheer joy. So you too are lucky to see it the way we did and here are the pictures. Oh guess what, according to our tracker there are plenty of sea fish that come upstream during the low tide and get trapped in the tiny ponds along the river bank. We also wanted to go to the river mouth but as Sena didn’t have the wrench in his jeep we decided not to attempt it coz the path was so muddy and would have made it so difficult. So we played it safe and didn’t go up to the river mouth.

Kumbukkan Oya

Towards the river mouth but far away

Nice view

Here’s the famous Gal Amuna

“Hey, you’re not out to catch us, are you?”

Well, time we went

Back on the Safari

I hope you liked what you saw but it was nothing compared to what you’d see with your own eyes. Let’s go on the last bit of Safari where we’d take you to another significantly important religious location inside Kumana, Kuda Kebaliththa. The road to Maha Siyambala Devalaya aka Kebaliththa goes near this which is located off Kumbukkan Oya. Most of the Jeep drivers would not dare do it in one jeep instead they’d insist on two jeeps just in case if one broke down which is quite common on that road due to the extremely bad conditions.

I’ll take you up to Kuda Kebaliththa and end it there coz it’ll have to be a better planned journey to go beyond that to Kebaliththa. We’re going back to the bungalow for lunch and a break after this and will come back in the afternoon for the rest of the day.

“You must be thinking I’m mad to dry them out but jump in again into the water”

“I can’t bear this pain anymore”

“This froggy is a very slick one”

“Hey guys”

“Well, I’m not as tall as that Ali Manawa”

Kumbukkan Oya near Kuda Kebaliththa, the Moya Kata aka River Mouth is nearby

With the blessings of the gods, you may go. But don’t forget to come again

We turned around after seeing a couple of jeeps coming from Kebaliththa. They looked as if they’d all been through a hurricane and the people inside looked haggard and were coated half an inch thick with dust. The drivers were the worst affected and their faces were white and visibly exhausted. It told us how difficult the journey to Kebaliththa actually is and how much planning and time needed to do it the proper manner. Still you’re bound to get knocked about in that difficult terrain.

We turned around and came to the bungalow for lunch as the time was getting closer to mid-day. On our way we met a few other friends who came forward to tell their story but some of them were still vary of our presence so stayed well away from us. Here we go:

“Hiya folks, how’s it going?”

“Gotcha”

“Such a greedy stork”

“Thani Thatuwen Piaymbanna”

“Off we go then”

“I heard some rifle shots I guess”

We came in time for a still warm lunch. It was midday and the heat was unbearable but the breeze coming from the tank was a blessing. We all stretched our legs and took showers while waiting for the lunch to be served. Despite the heat and exhaustion, we felt elated at some good sightings in the morning. So we decided to take a short break, about one and half hours before venturing onto the wild once again. The water in the bungalow was brackish with a touch of mud in it. So you should not expect a similar bath you’re having in Colombo or elsewhere. However, it’s nothing alarming but if you’re frantic about water and its condition, just watch out so that you won’t get disappointed. Also, remember not to expect so much as the main purpose of those bungalows is for the facilitation of wildlife sightings, not deluxe accommodation.

After a break (we were too excited to take a nap), it was time to get on the track again. We got Sena and our tracker Nalinda out of their resting points and got back on the jeep around 3pm. The heat was somewhat bearable so we made it slowly towards deep into the jungle. Let’s see what we’d find now before I wrap this up for today.

“Morning runs are always really good”

“I know you’re impressed with our spoon like beak”

“Just hurry it up son”

“This is how you take off vertically”

“And land vertically”

“You saw my husband?”

“Hey, you got me”

” Must have a wash like this”

“And brush my feathers well”

“Hi, I’m the Podu Poroluwa or Hoopoe”

“It’s very hot today”

“I’ve torn my ears”

“Perfect Jumbo, huh?”

“Hey, do I look beautiful?”

“Yo, I’m taking a nap”

“Lols, I know I’m fat”

“I left it here”

“Hey Lapwing, what ya looking buddy?”

“You guys need some help?”

“This is good for our wedding photo”

“Oh, you scared me”

“Did you hear that?”

“Well, should I run?”

“It’s the best time for a relaxing float”

“Ok, now you can pass”

Up close

View from the bungalow

So what you think about them? It was great especially the Spoon Bills and that huge Croc. Of course the credit of spotting the Spoon Bills should go to Gayani (Gayan’s wife and now don’t ask about the coincidence in them having similar names) coz we probably had missed good many of them as they were very much like those Egrets you find almost everywhere. And they keep their beaks either buried in the water looking for food or at odd angles making it difficult to spot. However, thanks to her we managed to see a good number of them as we were looking for them since the first sighting.

All in all, it was a majestic day and we witnessed another glorious sunset over the trees. By the time we arrived at the bungalow, the sun had all but dipped below the horizon leaving this orange and crimson mixture on the sky. We’re ready for some noodles and hit the sack. Come back in the morning as we would be spending the last day at Kumana and will be leaving after lunch. So we’d be doing a morning session and come back for brunch and check out of the bungalow and do a small safari again before saying good-bye.

Day 03

Good morning and hope you’re all set for a morning session with these beautiful creatures. Well, let’s not waste any more time and get cracking. We witnessed this glorious sunrise on our way over the lagoon and treetops. Here are some pics of that.

Glistening beautifully

A dreamy shot

Reflections on the water

That was a great show, wasn’t it? Who would’ve thought we’d be treated to such glory inside a National Park? That was a really good stroke of luck. Ok, now let’s go to the nearby lagoon coz we saw a couple of Ali Manawa (Black-Necked Stork) yesterday and see if they are there. It’s such a rare sighting of them as much as Pelicans and Spoon Bills. Hopefully we’ll get lucky and they’d have a word with us.

Glistening beautifully

A dreamy shot

Reflections on the water

“A nice juicy breakfast”

Our arrival at the lagoon for the big show

“Did you catch anything?” – Nope not here”

“Those Ali Manawas are very proud”

“You got stuck?”

“Let’s go there”

“Pooh, almost broke this spoon”

“How’s my landing?”

So guys, how did you enjoy the mesmerizing display of the Ali Manawa? They were simply amazing and the morning rays lit up the whole lagoon bringing their colors beautifully. Well, we couldn’t have asked for a better way to kick off our day and let’s go and see what else lies ahead for us.

“I’m a lot better than the one you saw yesterday, right?”

“Plenty of food here”

“Not very tasty though”

“Oh honey, been looking for you all over”

“Hey stop disturbing me and go away”

“Ok, then let’s get started”

“Why did you get so late? Been waiting for ages”

Our team from left: Nalinda, Sena and two cooks)

We arrived at the bungalow around 11am and had rice and curry so that we could hold until we were well away from Potuvil before we had to stop for meals. However, we got some Roti made and packed to have on the way. It was very saddening to bid farewell to this wonderful location and I wish we had more time. We said good-bye to our cooks and left for the entrance. This was one helluva journey and I’d treasure it to the rest of my life. However, we managed to do a little more safari before winding up our tour and here are those pictures.

“It’s a nice shady place”

“Anything down there?”

“Just admiring my nice and long beak”

“It’s a nice place for us”

“Xo xo xo”

“Oh you taking a portrait of me”

“The nectar is tasty on these”

“Shiny feathers”

“I’m watching you closely”

Well, that was our journey inside the Kumana National Park, one of the very best in SL. If you’ve not been there yet, please go by all means and I’m sure you won’t be disappointed. Please take care of the nature and bring back all the garbage with you. Treat the nature with the due respect and do everything possible to protect it for the future as well. We left the park having thanked our tracker Nalinda who was a very good person. There was so much we couldn’t see yet, namely the Bambaragasthalawa and Kudumbigala. It means we’d definitely have to come back once again to this breath-taking place.

On our way, we came across somebody who was very muscular and handsome. You’d wonder if it was a Bollywood or Hollywood Star. Well, lemme show you what he looks like.

“Perhaps it’s best if I flew away”

“Well why should I coz it’s my place?”

Well, how was the star player? He was really muscular and reminded me of Sylvester Stallone in Rambo. I think it’s time to end this report and hope you all enjoyed these beautiful encounters as much as we did. There was so much we missed capturing on our lenses so it’s really important for you to be there in order to get a better understanding of these beautiful and wonderful creatures of the Mother Nature.

Well, that’s it from Sri and I’ll see you once again with another Pictorial Story from another National Park. Until then, take care and keep travelling.

Hot air ballooning is not very much familiar in Sri Lanka as it costs high. But this activity is very popular among tourists. Because there are many foreigners directly come to have this facility since it is low cost as per their budget.

Kandalama, Dambulla is the most suitable area to run this activity since the weather and the environment is totally comfortable with the ballooning conditions. Sun Rise Ballooning is the only company in Sri Lanka which operating this event since last 10 years. There is a pilot to operate the balloon and he is the co-owner of this company. Mr Justin is having over 36 year experience within 44 countries about Ballooning.

I had this amazing opportunity freely for a newspaper article. The balloon will start to fly around 5.30am at Kandalama and that is the suitable and correct time to fly. Because the environment (Kandalama) at that time is so cold and with mist. Then the balloon can easily go to the sky since it’s getting hot. All the passengers should be at there at time and they cannot stop the balloon once it got opened to fly. We left from Ja-Ela at 12.00mid night and came to Kandalama, Dambulla at 4.00am. Since we had more time, we were slept at the roadside bench for 1 hour after that we went to the place and we got shocked by seeing the huge balloon. That is almost covered 15-20 perches on ground. We got into the balloon and it’s started to fly around 5.40am. The basket was divided to 8 parts and the passengers should be at there as per the required measures.  We were lucky to see the sunrise from the Sigiriya side and that was really beautiful and amazing. The environment was totally at a mist and sometimes we saw the village houses and the green paddy fields. After 20 minutes we were around 1200ft-1500ft high and the view from the sky is unbelievable.

At least you should have an 18-300mm lens to capture the moments and we saw Sigiriya, Kandalama Hotel, Dambulla Temple, mountains, Lakes, Tanks, Giant Buddha Statue etc. We had almost a 90 minutes ride at the sky and finally the balloon was landed to a paddy field where they normally landing.

INTRODUCTION TO BALLOONING

Hot air ballooning is an adventure activity like no other, your flight path unknown, taking off at sunrise around 6 am. Passenger to be at the launch site by 5.30 am.

It is peaceful, fun, exciting and amazing. Whether you are a couple, a group or a single adventurous traveller each and every balloon flight makes for an unforgettable and breathtaking journey.

Float gently with the breeze 1,000 – 2,000 feet above taking off from Kandalama in the Cultural Triangle as you enjoy the experience of the oldest form of flight. The peace and gentleness of the flight will surprise you as your Pilot guides the balloon using the different wind currents at different altitudes.

Become one with the wind. See the daybreak beneath you as it comes alive. The spectacular sunrise across the Kandalama tank as it paints the landscape with wonderful colours, watch the fisherman beneath, the mountains, the green forests with the waking of wildlife “music of the wild”. The Golden Buddha sitting majestically on one end and Sigiriya in the distance on the other. Villagers of all ages calling out Good Morning and waving happily to the passengers as you fly over their homes and children following the balloon to the landing to collect their share of stationery.

Coming to land your Pilot will inform you to take your position. After the landing, your flight will be toasted with a glass of champagne. Juice and chilled water is available. After which you will be taken by our drivers to your hotel. What better way to start your day

Why choose Sun Rise Ballooning?

Sun Rise Ballooning is the premium hot air balloon flight company catering for small or large groups with the country’s most experienced balloon team since the inception of ballooning in Sri Lanka. Abiding by the aviation laws and regulations set by the relevant ministries is our responsibility.

Our Balloons :

All our balloons are registered aircrafts with the Civil Aviation Authority of Sri Lanka (CAA-SL). Our balloons undergo regular maintenance and safety audits ensuring our passengers safety and comfort with yearly inspection for airworthiness by the CAA-SL.

Pilots :

We handpick European Pilots who have a wealth of knowledge flying in different terrains in many countries and with a strong emphasis on safety. We are in the process of training our very own home grown Pilot under the watchful eyes of our Chief Pilot / Director initially on ground works and will finally head to Europe to be trained and certified in the proper manner.

Operations:

Geared in keeping up-to date, all paperwork needed for the operation namely documentations with the CAA for balloons, Pilots, crew etc.

Justin Patrick Moore – Chief Pilot and Director

Over 30 years of experience flying hot air balloons in many countries around the world from the North Pole to Australia and with 4580 flying hours. Justin has been flying in Sri Lanka since 2006 in the North Central, Southern Region and the 1st flight in the Colombo District. With the love for Sri Lanka and making it his 2nd home and passion for ballooning, he will continue to fly till retirement.

Justin was the Chief Pilot and Director of European Balloon Display Co Ltd in the UK.

Package Price:

Foreigners     –        US$ 210/- per adult

Sri Lankans    –        Rs. 17,000/-

Child rate       –        US$ 160/- per child between the ages of 7 and 12

NB: teenagers under 16 years must be accompanied by an adult and kids under 7 years old and pregnant ladies will not be allowed to take the balloon flight.

We especially thanks to,

Sun Rise Ballooning (Pvt) Ltd is a SLCAA approved project and operates commercial flights in the Dambulla area situated in the centre of the Cultural Triangle.

Based at :

Sisirawatta, Kandalama Road,

Dambulla, Sri Lanka

Fax. +94 (0) 112 898470

info@srilankaballooning.com

Its getting up

Filling with the Gas

Its got up

Pilot is checking the gas

Ready to Fly

We were at the Basket

Moving from the ground

The power

We are flying

Styles at the Dawn

Lonely house at a paddy feild

Sigiriya is at dawn

Paddy fields

A mining workshop

Kandalama tank

Nice paddies

Sun rising over the mountains

Oh, She is coming

So Beautiful

The firing ball is at the sky

Sunrising over the Kandalama Tank

People are getting ready

Stylish Paddy fields

Firing Ball on the Red carpet

Over the mountains

Red and Balck

The giant Buddha Statue

Path between the Paddies

Reminding me the Sun set at Colombo

Over the tank an mountains

Beautiful Sun Rising

Water source at the ground

Mr Justin operating the machine

Soo Hot, Firing

Mr Justin

Bird View

A bird flying

Over the Dambulla temple

Mountains at the mist

The Balloon

The Gas tanks

The gadgets

Village House

Their living style

Don’t know the name

Anuradhapura Dambulla road

View from the sky

Nice views of the paddy fields

Beautiful Temple at the mist

view of a CTB from the sky

Passengers

Happy Faces

They are enjoying the tour

Zoomed view of the mountain

Coconuts at a line

Paddy Fields

Another water source for the paddies

Mist and Mountains

Opportunity

They have started their daily works

Getting ready to go to the School

Reflection on water

Capturing Capturing..

CTB is going fast

Happy faces at all

Happy faces

Styles of the ground

Beautiful Roads

Over the small forests

Paddy styles

Main road

Another view of Paddies

Beautiful Know..

Sky view

Happy faces

Sun rising team

My friend is coming

Giant mountains

Shadow of the Balloon

Shadow over the forest

Happy Faces

Shadow over the rocky plains

Mist is getting disappear

Sky view

Sky View

They are flying

Over the paddy fields

Shadow over the paddy fields

Bi Balloon

Ready to Land

Ground team was at the landing site

My friend

Pulling to the correct place

Top of the Balloon

Balloon was landed

We landed

The giant getting packed

The Giant

The passengers

The Basket

Where we were stayed

Fe more to fold

This is not a easy work

Sharing the feelings

The team

The Pilot Mr Justin

They were really enjoyed

We with the Pilot

View from the land

Photos by my friend

We are flying

We are flying over the mountains

I didn’t see this angle

All rights reserved

It was landed

Successful land

The giant after the ride

Hello my friends, so how’s it going? The downpours have arrived at last, haven’t they? So my hopes of camping have shattered like eggs dropped on a rocky surface. So I had to adapt to the change of weather, well it’s so difficult to predict now thanks to the continuous abusing of the Mother Nature in the name of development, and find a way of doing something. That was when we finalized on Namunukula coupled with Ella Rock.

At the time of writing this article, the whole country was being hammered left and right with downpours due to a low pressure situation in the Bay of Bengal. This was a complete turnaround from the drought we suffered in April. We don’t anymore have the nice and mixed weather patterns which we used to experience. Instead, it’s either heavy rains or severe drought and nothing in between. Ok, let’s move on with the story.

We fixed the dates for early May (7 & 8) and unlike our usual 3-day journeys; this had to be cut short into two due to our members’ work related issues. Travelling to and back from Badulla after a relatively moderate hikes is very challenging, especially for the driver. However Ana was up to the challenge so we passengers happily consented and got ready for the journey.

We came across Kasun’s Report on the cleaning of Namunukula and Ana apparently had made up his mind on doing something similar as he’d communicated with one of his friends who had involved in the project and got the information. Unlike the previous group who had not prepared for the extreme littering and had only managed to carry the garbage and polythene items, Ana had collected two thick fertilizer bags which were ideal for most of the hardy stuff. In addition to those he’d also got some long sticks to carry the heavy bags easily downhill on the shoulders of two people like how they sell fish in those containers with a pole attached.

Day 01

We were ready and left for Badulla at 2am, an hour earlier than usual, to compensate for the long journey. Our plan was to reach Kital Ella by 7am in order to start the hike to Ella Rock before the sun got vicious and finish the journey before the rains got mad. As planned we made very good ground and after a couple of pit stops, arrived at Kital Ella just before 7am.

Tour Highlights: 

1. Ella Rock, Kital Ella.
2. Namunukula Mountain.
3. Cleaning Efforts at Namunukula.

Ella Rock is more popular among foreigners than locals, I can safely say. Almost all the foreigners who visit Sri Lanka go to Ella (they pronounce it as Ela rather than Ella with double Ls). It’s said that Ella is among the three mostly visited places in Sri Lanka by the foreigners after Dalada Maligawa and Pinnawala. Climbing Ella Rock was (before our journey) said to be a relatively easier task and there was no guide needed. So we too decided to attempt it without a guide. I don’t usually like to do any hike without a guide as the pros always outweigh the cons of having a guide even though we have to pay him some money. I believe it is money well-spent as those people who guide us will learn to protect those environmental treasures instead of trying to make easy money by destroying them.

Now to find the correct trail to the Ella Rock. Please follow this and you’re not going to miss your way. Walk past Kital Ella Station (when coming from Ella) and continue for about 300m until you find a road to your left hand side. It’s not quite prominent when coming along the railway line so keep an eye out for it. It’s just a gravel (rather earth) road and take it and after a 50-100 meters it’ll cross the stream that feeds the Ravana Ella (not the Bambaragama Ella found on Ella-Wellawaya Road) with a concrete bridge. You can of course see the Ravana Ella when coming from Ella towards Kital Ella. Now just follow this road all the way to the summit. Fairly straight forward, isn’t it? It’s about 2-3km moderate hike to the Ella Rock.

There is another path which is quite confusing and that was what we took. It’s just before the Kital Ella Station when coming from Ella. You’ll see a railway bridge and just after it is a Bo Tree and take the tiny footpath to the left and follow the stream for about 50m until you reach a concrete bridge (identical one is found on the other path too) across the stream that feeds Ravana Ella. Actually this is the top of Ravana Ella and if you get down to the rocky surface (of course on a nice and dry day) you will be at the top of Ravana Ella. Then follow the trail straight on and you’ll soon be walking at the edge of the ridge that connects to the Ella Rock Range. To your left you can see Ella, Ella-Wellawaya Road, etc.  In addition to them, you can see Punchi Sri Pada (Little Adams Peak) and beyond that towering above Namunukula. It’s longer than the other path and will run through a Mana Patch and then a tea patch. It’ll then merge to the main trail with a shop and simply follow it to the summit.

Of course, you can always ask the path from the locals and clarify. There are always people lurking around the Kital Ella Station waiting for foreigners to take them to the Ella Rock so if you’re really desperate to have some help, maybe you can get one of them to take you to the summit. Anyway there are many articles on Lakdasun which would help you with the directions.

So, let’s back to the story at hand, shall we? We stopped at a shop on Ella-Kital Ella Road at the turn off to the station. The shop owner kindly allowed us to leave the vehicle in his land. We walked downhill along a concrete-paved road towards the station. It’s almost a km to the station. As we reached the station, Udarata Menike was coming to Kital Ella bound for Colombo. Wanna see a couple of pics of her?

Good morning!

Udarata Menike at Kital Ella

There she goes towards B’Wela

Seen when coming from Ella

We took the path closer to the Bo Tree and arrived at the bridge and then as we walked along the path there was a foreign couple ahead of us. Then appeared one of the locals and he directed us to a path that goes to the right uphill saying it’d be shorter and easier and chased after the foreigners. Well, I don’t understand why he simply didn’t ask us to follow him. Probably he wanted to hitch those foreigners and feared we might jeopardize his plans. The path he showed and we faithfully took led us into a thickly overgrown Mana area and we decided to retrace our steps and follow the original path we intended taking.

This led along the ridge and we got some beautiful views and followed it through the Mana patch and then entered the tea estate until we came to the junction with a shop where it merges with the original trail. There we decided to take a break and have our breakfast. The shop was still not open so we sat inside and enjoyed sandwiches. Here are some pics while we eat.

The bridge you see when enter near the Bo Tree

Top of Ravana Ella

Huge ones

The rail bridge just before the Kital Ella Station when coming from Ella

Nayabedda Range

Zoomed in

Leafless

But plenty of flowers

Towards Ella

Namunukula Range

Close up

Basking in the sun

He was very tiny and had a tough time capturing the fella

We continued the journey now turning to the left. It was a straight forward journey from there. The terrain more or less resembled that of Kalthota Doovili Ella and Upper Diyaluma Ella area with those unusual rock formations and unique trees. After a short hike we reached a point with a view of Punchi Sri Pada, Namunukula and Ella Rock. It was a really nice place with panoramic views. Well, here are some pictures up to that point while we enjoy ourselves.

On the way, as soon as we turned left to the proper path

Here we are